howNOTtoHighline

Big Wall Anchor Tricks That Can Save You Hours

Big Wall #9 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.com

Patron Early Access Link To All Videos h...

Ice Screw Break Tests in Iceland

PATRONS: I've been stoked for this one a long time.  Sat on this fully edited for MONTHS so it would be more seasonally relevant but it's finally getting cold out so here it is.  This was a lot of planning just to be able to do strong pu...

Aid Climbing Big Walls - How to Lead

Big Wall #8 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.com

Patron Early Access Link To All Videos h...

Watch this before climbing in Tonsai

Tonsai, Krabi, Thailand is a climbing mecca and has beautiful and unique climbing.  The overhanging limestone cliffs remind me of an outdoor cave without mud.  Here is some beta if you are planning to go there I hope makes your trip easi...

15 Knots You Need to Big Wall

Big Wall Bible #7 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.com

Patron Early Access Link To All Videos 2022-10-19 13:07:34 +0000 UTC View Post

EARLY ACCESS: C4 vs Ultralights: Testing Climbing Cams AT BLACK DIAMOND'S LAB

We drop-tested and slow-pulled old cams donated by Timothy Neidmeyer, Bobby Hutton and Eric Nies.  The ultralights were purchased in 2017 and were in a house fire where they got smoke and water damage which is why they are all rusty.  Th...

Aid Climbing - Hooking and Nutting

Big Wall Bible #6 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.com

Patron Early Access Link To All Videos 2022-10-12 13:00:13 +0000 UTC View Post

How much force can a $390 climbing bolt remover pull?

I modified the bolt buster tension tester to test how much force the YABR (Yet Another Bolt Remover) can generate and it's a lot.  It broke the bolt but I was twisting hard at 23.82kN or 5,354lbf!  This is why you have to score, or aggre...

My Big Wall Rack - Cams, Nuts & Hooks

Big Wall Bible #5 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.com

Patron Early Access Link To All Videos 2022-10-05 13:01:05 +0000 UTC View Post

Fun Update

I'm stoked so I thought I'd share it with my patrons.  One door closed and a really cool one opened.  I am going to Black Diamonds QA headquarters tomorrow at SLC and getting to interview the inventors of the Ultralight C4s.  I have...

How to Sleep on a Cliff and Poop in a Bag

Big Wall Bible #4 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.com

Patron Early Access Link To All Videos 2022-09-28 12:26:42 +0000 UTC View Post

Packing Haul Bags for Big Walling

Big Wall Bible #3 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.com

Patron Early Access Link To All Videos 2022-09-21 13:41:22 +0000 UTC View Post

EARLY ACCESS: Monkey fists don't work, or get stuck if they do

TO PATRONS: Every video I produce has a reason and value but some I know are going to be more popular of a topic, are intriguing what we caught on camera, and have a good storyline.  This kind episode is what I call GOLD and I wish they were ...

12 Essentials You Need To Climb Big Walls

Big Wall Bible #2 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.com

Patron Early Access Link To All Videos 2022-09-14 14:29:33 +0000 UTC View Post

Big Wall Bible - Planning For El Capitan

Big Wall Bible #1 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.com 

Patron Early Access Link To All Videos 2022-09-07 13:01:05 +0000 UTC View Post

EARLY ACCESS LINK

6 months of planning, 60 days of type 2 fun, 100+ hours of filming and 200-300 hours of editing and I now present to you The Big Wall Bible.  It is just the beginning and you'll see I'm still working on the blogs.  This link is a COPY of...

NO CHARGE ON UPDATE VIDEOS: 6 Year Anniversary! A 9 month project is now released

I redesigned our entire website from scratch and coded a 3 layer filter to organize our 400 episodes which are (soon) all in written form.  We have 3 courses live and our 4th course is coming out in 2 days.  I've been doing this for 6 ye...

FINALLY - New website is live

When I'm posting only 1x per week, you know I'm pretty busy behind the scenes.  It was crazy to put the pressure of making the new website live at the same time of releasing 14 big wall episodes but I've been working on this for 9 months and ...

Cave Anchors Made Out Of Dyneema???

EARLY ACCESS

Bobby and John broke some cave anchors.  They tested the Climbing Technology's Soft Anchors and also the homemade ones by Andrzej Rudkowski.     

CT dyneema broke at 14kn and rethreaded with Max sk...

Dyneema vs Chineema - How strong is "synthetic rope" (HMPE) on Ebay & Amazon?

EARLY ACCESS!

Dyneema or HPME comes in all sorts of qualities labeled as SK this or SK that.  What do they mean and how much do they affect strength.  We also test generic HMPE that I joke is chineema and is sold on ebay and amazon...

Big Wall Series 99.9%

Wow, that was harder than any big wall I've climbed.  100+ hours of filming, 200+ hours of editing while getting the new website to launch in 10 days from now was a lot of work but wow, it turned out really good.  14 videos are a part of...

Super 8 Knot - are the bunny ears actually redundant?

EARLY ACCESS:  This is what I'm posting tomorrow.  I'm tinkering with format for knot specific videos.  Showing how to tie it, application, untie test, and failure tests.  This one is a simple version.  I have a more compl...

Dyneema VS Generic HMPE Soft Shackles

PATRONS: Doing blogs for each video really helps share information that is difficult to articulate in a video I'm trying to keep fast paced and interesting even though it's real nerdy.  I'm excited that the new website will allow me to do thi...

Does PURCELL PRUSSIK save you If you fall on an ASCENDER???

PATRON BEHIND THE SCENES: I edit in batches what I filmed in batches so I'm excited to do a whole bunch of drop tower stuff.  Matt is a local-to-the-lab fire fighter who came down and shared gear fear among some fire fighters.  Falling o...

Tested Dyneema (UHMwPE) Tapers BUT the TEUFELBERGER Brummel PULLED OUT!

EARLY ACCESS - COMES OUT TOMORROW - I've been working on 3 dyneema break test videos and they all have some gold sprinkled in them all.  Thank you for your support because this is how NOT to get sponsored.  I hope Teufelberger doesn't ge...

Updates! 7-22-22

It's a known fact that anyone taking a photo of a spreadsheet to share with people for no other reason than they are excited... is a nerd.  

Before I nerd out on you, I want to thank you so much for either having had supported me or jus...

Does Petzl's Wire Lock locking carabiner hold up to other climbing carabiners?

EARLY ACCESS: I finally got a video done in advance! This is going out Wednesday.  Just officially hired an editor and instagram manager and once that is done, I can start working on the Big Wall Course.

We broke 12 locking carabiners a...

Update!

Just finished filming 9 days to get 30 hours of footage to be cut down to about 12x 1 hour videos on How NOT 2 Big Wall.  This is a screen shot of the intro where Ryan 1 is hazing Ryan 2 while he is "training" for a big wall.  Very fun t...

I Got Rescued! What is Search and Rescue?

PATRONS: Today (Wednesday) I'm all finished filming the big wall course with Jeremiah.  30 hours of footage that will be cut into 12x 1 hour episodes and take about 100ish hours of editing.  The Big Wall Bible is going to be a place on o...

How long can you safely leave a permanent slackline set up?

PATRONS: worked on this until the last minute so couldn't do early access but our big project right now is How NOT 2 Big Wall course and we are putting tons of thought into it before shooting to be even better than our last course.  New websi...